A New World Of Color: Partnership With Toda Kogyo
Challenge
Color is a key property for make-up products, and make-up formulators around the world are always seeking new color or optical effects. But innovation in the field of new cosmetic pigments is difficult because of existing safety and regulatory constraints.
Forming the Partnership

Our collaboration began in 2002 when L´Oréal learned of a new technology developed by the Japanese company Toda Kogyo, a worldwide in high-tech pigment. Toda Kogyo had developed a unique technology applied to the ink industry. The technology was a dry process to create a hybrid between inorganic and organic pigments.

Prior to this, the traditional approach to making hybrids or composite material in the innovation industry was to modify the surface of pigments or to encapsulate them. The innovative idea here was to do exactly the opposite and to put an organic pigment at the surface of an inorganic pigment.

L´Oréal approached Toda Kogyo about a partnership. We agreed to collaborate on developing new pigments for make-up application having intermediate properties between the organic and inorganic pigments already used in the cosmetic industry.
Collaborative Process

After signing a confidentiality agreement and a collaboration agreement, Toda Kogyo quickly produced first samples. During the course of regular, frequent meetings, we jointly evaluated results and resolved issues.

The main issues to address were the right choice of raw material, the availability of those materials and the pigment agglomeration during the process and the final use in formulation. To this challenge, Toda Kogyo brought its outstanding technical expertise on physico-chemical properties of pigments and knowledge of the hybridization process. For its part, L´Oréal brought expertise in color properties and cosmetic formulation around the pigments.

We quickly made progress. By 2005, we were able to scale up the first generation of new pigments.
Successes

Our partnership with Toda Kogyo yielded more than we had even hoped in seeking to develop a pigment with intermediate properties. We created new, unique hybrid pigments for the first time in cosmetic history. We were able to obtain a variety of different shades—none of which could have been realized using classic pigments. In addition, the shades were more saturated, and there proved to be excellent color fidelity between bulk and application color.

 
Products launched with the technology:
L'ORÉAL Paris : infaillible International 2007
Shu Uemura: Rouge unlimited International 2006
Commercial Application
The first commercial lipstick containing these pigments, Rouge Unlimited, was launched in Japan in 2006—just three years after receiving the first lab prototypes. These hybrid pigments are now used in more than 400 commercial formulas on the market.